Can you render over wood

Originally Posted by hotshot. Render is one of those jobs that require a specialist, it goes without saying. Pot luck probably, I wouldn't dream of offering rendering services for money.

May be for free as a favour But It will not look right. You can render the bricks and leave the cladding as it is, that will keep that effect that is part of the house. If you want to render the cladded part you will need to remove the FC boards and replace it with flat Villaboard and render over it, leaving the step. If you want to make all leveled and render over the lot, you will inevitably have a crack where the bricks meet the FC, no matter what you do.

In your picture you have arrows pointing at the pergola post Science is never settled, it advances one funeral at the time. Max Planck. No one is disputing that a renderer should do the rendering. On the other hand, there are great examples of OBs who have personally built their entire house from foundations to roof trusses and almost everything in between without any qualifications at all.

It comes down to acknowledging how much you don't know and how much you are willing to learn. And a natural appitude for the tasks. In this case, it is possible the renderer was once a chippie, or maybe he's just someone who has built their own house, or extension and is happily confident to prepare some small walls for blueboard.

They may need very little attention, or a lot, to bring them up to spec for new cladding. No biggie at all in my personal experience. A lot of assumptions there, and you know what they say about assumptions! My view is if your a plumber, your a specialist in that field, sure you might be able to put a noggin in here and there to put your plumbing on that's fine, or you might be able to hack the studs to bits to put your plumbing in because your a bad plumber, and not think anything of it, that's not fine, I have seen this done on outside jobs I have been called to.

As a plumber or sparkie you might also be able to build a deck if your interested in that type of thing, I have built plenty of decks for plumbers, painters, sparkies because they are specialists in their own right, and they know they offer a professional job to others in their field, but they engaged me to do the same for them because building is my specialist field and they want a level of finish they know they may not be able to achieve, same as I call in a plumber or sparkie because that's their speciality.

I know I can wire up a new circuit, install a two way switch or add power points, I can even add a tap here and there as brazing is easy, it's not rocket science, it doesn't mean I am allowed to do that, or I'm doing it correctly, I have my test and Tag license, and plug top replacement cert, but that doesn't mean I can do anything with electrical, and honestly I'm not interested in doing it as I would prefer a sparkie to do this for me as I know it's done right.

Yes OB can do a lot of stuff, just like anyone, but they can also do a lot of stuff wrong because of lack of experience and knowledge, and taking a guess at how to do something, or not wanting to spend the money to get the right advice or help to do it correctly, after all this is why most OB are trying to do it themselves because they think the tradies are going to rip them off.

It's fine to say there are many great examples of OB building their own house, thats great, the issue there is it took them 18 months or more to finish their house, where a specialised builder can achieve the same or better finish in 6 months. I do disagree with your comment about every trade thinks no other trade can do the simplest aspects of their job, tradies by nature are hands on people, unlike office workers who sit behind a computer and push pens, the tradies I know are very resourceful people because it comes with the nature of the job, they can work their way through simple problems with other trades without any fuss, but anything advanced they will call the expert.

In regards to specialists, IMO a good carpenter is the most resourceful and knowledgeable person on site outside of their specialist field, they not only need to know about their specialist field of timber structures which involves floors, walls and roof, including structural elements, spans, timber sizes, timber treatments, trusses, but they need to have a good knowledge of form work, insulation, gyprock, metal and tile roofing, guttering installation, Reduced Level, doors, hinges, locks, windows fitments and repair , flooring, cladding, termite protection, skirting, architraves, jambs, glazing fitment, kitchen installations, bathroom preparations, demolition, stairs, balustrades, the list goes on and on,.

Why not, you seem to have plenty to say about everything else, is that's because your a renovator you already know everything about everything, right? I work in an office but I don't push pens Originally Posted by Marc. I like to help you out This is better: I saw you kicking a can down the street and asked what are you doing? Yes both are jokes yet your post is rather pathetic. Using render to do this tends to be less expensive than using cladding.

Existing renders are often finished with a thin coating or paint which will form a weak interface which is not suitable for rendering over. Dirty deposits accumulated over a period of time can form a weak intermediate layer that interferes with the development of the bond of newly applied render. You can apply drywall mud to any rough-grain wood surface. Plywood or oriented strand board OSB are good choices, but the mud will also stick to painted wood, as long as the paint is flat and not glossy.

Hi, to answer you question about plastering over mdf the answer is no.. It wont adhere and the moisture from the wet plaster will cause all sorts of problems with the mdf as its effectively compressed sawdust.. If you are talking about cement render then it should stick to rough timber such as old sleepers. The board should be fitted with the coarse face out to receive the render and a mm gap left between each board.

Most render manufactures state that their product can be applied over cement particle boards however from experience although that is correct I would advise that the render is kept as thin as possible, probably a maximum of 10mm in thickness. You could use a grab adhesive but I would advise against that also. Like this you will not need to felt over the ply.

I'm just wondering if you can plaster and render over wood. I have an exposed wooden lintel above a window that needs rendering on and wood around an open plan doorway that's been removed that would ideally be plastered on. What would i need to plaster. To plaster over wood you would need to plasterboard over the wood or again use a metal mesh and bond then skim that area. And then render it". Got a question that only a tradesperson can answer?

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